Monday 2 September 2013

This is the way we make a jacket at The Elvish Tailor

At the moment the elf is doing lots of tailoring in the traditional manner by hand, This is how we put together a Victorian frock coat..

First we cut the pattern and lay it out on the fabric, marking it with tailor's chalk.

The pieces are then cut and cut again in a stiff cotton which forms the interlining, this gives body to the jacket.

The lining is then cut from silk, black dupion for the body and ivory paj for the sleeves.

The canvas for the interior is then cut without seam allowances.
The outer pieces are then pressed over the interlining and tacked along the seam allowance line, 1.5 cm from the edge in silk thread, this doesn't leave a mark on the fabric when it is pressed.

The breast pocket is then put in on the left side .

This is then pressed.
The undercollar is hand stitched to the collar canvas and steamed into shape.

Shoulder pads are then cut from cotton wadding and stitched together.

The body of the jacket is then tacked and stitched together.
Then the canvas interlining is put together and tacked to the outer.

Shoulder pads are then put on and the armhole tightened.

Sleeves are put together and the buttonholes hand stitched on the cuff.


Sleeves are then tacked in and the skirt tacked on before fitting, at this stage any alterations are done to the fit.
The lining is then put together .

Sleeves and the skirt are attatched  and buttonholes hand stitched . The lining is put in.

It is then refitted and pressed then finally buttons and labels are done.
Beautiful handmade frock coat.